Today’s theme: Shower Day. For two reasons – the first being that I hadn’t showered since Friday, before Frisbee on Saturday and adventuring since Sunday, and the second being because we’re now experiencing showers. When we returned to camp today, the rain gave way to ice and then marble-sized hail, which was quite unexpected. As I write, it seems to be raining again, and thundering and lighting, but at least it’s all liquid.
Before these storms rolled in, it was a beautiful day, though, and we spent 6 hours of it driving to and from Teton, and about 4 hours of it hiking around in Teton, which was very pleasurable. We saw a lot of Marmots there, and on the drive back, we say a coyote trotting down the road. What can I say about the Tetons, other than that they are magnificent from afar, dauntingly steep from close in, and covered in snow?
To go back a few days, we left the Badlands Monday morning. So far, the Badlands are still my favorite place we have seen, because the biodiversity there is astounding, the subtle oranges, reds, and yellows of the sand enchant you with their shifting tones, and the place just seems impossible. We took a short morning hike, came across birds in little mud houses that they built under cliff ledges, saw more grasses than I think I have seen heretofore in my life, and got a view over the lower plains. Afterward, we drove through the park to Wall.
Wall was the beginning of the downward slope of the hill for me. I walked around, but knew in short order that I really had no use for the place. I picked up overpriced bug spray and a camera, and went outside to write postcards. No luck finding the brown leather cowgirl had of my dreams, the one to match my boots, and I wasn’t going to settle for anything less.
On from Wall, we went to the Black Hills, which I really did not enjoy. It felt cramped, we missed going to Rushmore and everything cost lots of money and was far away by winding roads. South Dakota suffers from a glut of billboards, obstructing the views to what might otherwise be a savagely beautiful landscape (see Wyoming). Wall Drug and the Black Hills are pretty much the cause of all the fuss, so I blame them in part for making South Dakota really unlikable. I ended up just sleeping through a significant portion of the Hills and perking up once we got to Wyoming.
Wyoming is savagely beautiful. As soon as we got into the state, we saw a sign for the Vore Buffalo jump, and turned off the highway to find out what it could be. Evidently, according to the rancher whose family had owned the land since about 1880 and who had deeded the land to a land trust to make it a national historic place after trying to deed it to the University and having them use it and abuse it for their own purposes, the Vore Buffalo jump was a natural sinkhole that several Indian tribes used to lure herds of bison into in order to then kill them for their meat and hides. Unfortunately, it was closed for winter, opening about a week from when we showed up. Nonetheless, it seemed pretty cool, although as we kept driving, I wondered why they would use that particular spot instead of any one of the other canyons and crevices that dotted the landscape. Perhaps it was because that one was round, and therefore had wall on all sides, whereas the other canyons and crevices around were not totally enclosed.
From the Buffalo jump we headed north to Devil’s Tower, which was well worth the drive. While there, I felt like I had a magnet attached to my forehead that was being pulled very strongly to the top of the tower. We bought postcards with the Works Progress Administration drawing, and hopped back to the car to try to get to the Bighorns before nightfall. We succeeded, just barely, and set up our first backcountry camp. By dinner’s end, we were bathed in moonlight, and there really were moonshadows everywhere.
We were out early the next morning, and rode through the rest of the Big Horn forest, and across the Wyoming plains. By the time we hit Cody, where we stopped for an oil change at the Wal-Mart, I was in a pretty rotten mood. My camera would cost about $170 to repair, so I don’t think it’s worth it, plus we were in a Wal-Mart, which is never very pleasant. But we made it out and up to Yellowstone, where we were delayed for half an hour for road construction, but eventually got up to a campsite and set up camp and finally had lunch, at maybe 3:45. I felt a lot better after that!
We went back out and explored Yellowstone, stopping at paint pots, fumeroles, geysers, and hot springs, driving through river canyons and across plains dotted with Buffalo, and of course, making the final stop at Old Faithful. Which we just missed by moments at about 7:30. So we stayed, listened to a Ranger give a talk, bought some potable water (another cause of my horrible mood was dehydration, since the water we had picked up in South Dakota tasted absolutely horrendous), and waited for the 9:00 showing. We were not disappointed as we got to see the geyser erupt against the setting sun, which was picturesque in a way that hopefully will come through on my flashless disposable camera.
So, theme of Monday and Tuesday was seeing things from a distance, what with looking at things across the plains, spotting Devil’s tower from afar, missing Mount Rushmore and only seeing it from the road, not paying the $25 to see Crazy Horse from up close, and staying at a safe distance from all of the thermal activity and wildlife of Yellowstone. Except, as we drove back from Old Faithful, late at night, we turned a corner and there were two Buffalo crossing the road, one right in front of our car, and one directly (like 5 feet) to the right. We slipped right between them, and as we did I said to Jake “go fast” because the first one started galloping next to us, and it turns out that Bison weigh 2000 pounds, can charge at 30 mph, and can jump about 6 feet high.
Anyway, we’re safe and sound, uneaten by bears, unmauled by buffalo, and ready for bed, then Montana in the morning.